Plans to expand program are on hold as gag-inducing pong and vermin are holding back residents, foodies and hipsters from saving food scraps
It was meant to be an ambitious environmental program but efforts at composting in New York are breaking down amid rats, roaches and rank smells.
New Yorkers are relatively good at recycling but an ick factor is holding them back from saving food scraps for reprocessing, the authorities admitted.
In a sweaty city that regularly has back to back humid days in the eighties and nineties Fahrenheit all summer, some householders are recoiling from the scheme in a cloud of fruit flies.
Now plans to expand New Yorks organics collection program are on hold as even eco-minded residents, foodies and hipsters wrestle with the idea of bags of putrid mush sitting on their kitchen counter tops awaiting disposal.
City-issued large brown plastic collection bins that are put out on the sidewalk have special fastening lids to keep out vermin but, full of deteriorating leftovers, still often exude a gag-inducing pong when opened.
New York mayor Bill de Blasio introduced a pilot program five years ago, hoping hundreds of thousands of tons of this food-loving citys leftovers and grass mowings would be churning their way through the system, to be turned into alternative energy or fertilizing compost.
But expansion has been put on hold because there is insufficient participation to be cost-effective. The city collected only about 13,000 tons last year and found that the 3.5 million people currently in the voluntary program are only separating 10.6% percent of their potential scraps.
Honestly, I think its a complete waste of time, says Anselmo Ariza, who maintains the trash and recycling bins for several blocks of apartment buildings in Brooklyn. Some people use them, but most of them just put trash and plastic bags in there. Marzena Golonka complained that the citys weekly pickup at her apartment building in Brooklyn is not frequent enough to keep the stink and rats away.
Its vile, she says. Until sanitation starts doing their job effectively, Im not going to have a brown bin.
De Blasios goal of sending zero waste to landfills by 2030 depends on residents and businesses separating their organic waste, which currently makes up a third of the trash that ends up in landfills and is a major producer of greenhouse gases.
The city is still committed to expanding the program to all 8.5 million New York City residents, but right now is focused on making the system more efficient, sanitation commissioner Kathryn Garcia said.
We are having to overcome the ick factor, Garcia said.
The flamboyant Bottura is known for his playful approach to classic dishes. His creations include a lasagna with only the crispy bits and a deconstructed dessert called “Oops I Dropped the Lemon Tart.” Bottura is an art lover and his food is visually exciting as well as delicious. More recently, he has become known for Feed the Soul, an international non-profit organization to feed the homeless and hungry that grew out of a community kitchen in Milan.
Bottura accepted the award on stage with his American-born wife Lara Gilmore. He said that chefs and everyone in the restaurant business must realize that they have the power to change the world.
“I am going to use this spotlight to make even stronger the changes there are going to be,” said Bottura at a press conference following his win. “Feed the planet. Fight waste. Last week Henry Kissinger asked me for a selfie. It is unbelievable. We have to involve all the community of chefs … pushing the spotlight you have to make the invisible visible is extremely important.”
The results of the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards were announced before an invited audience in Bilbao, Spain. Although much was made about diversity in advance of the ceremony, there was little change in the Top 10 beyond a minor reshuffling of places. Apart from Eleven Madison Park’s drop, it was a good year for North America. The United States had four more restaurants in the Top 100, up from nine last year. Mexico had two restaurants in the top 15; in 2017 the country’s highest entry was 20.
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list is organized and compiled by William Reed Business Media. It is created from the votes of more than 1,000 restaurateurs, chefs, food writers, and gastronomes. The voters are split into 26 separate regions around the world. Each region has its own panel of 40 members. (Vines formerly chaired the U.K. and Ireland panel but is no longer involved.)
Winning the 50 Best is great for business. The day after El Celler de Can Roca first topped the list, in 2013, its website got 12 million visitors and the restaurant hired three extra staff just to turn down requests for tables. Noma’s Rene Redzepi said he could have filled his restaurant for almost 15 years with the booking requests the day after he first won, in 2010
The awards started in 2002 as a feature in , a U.K. publication founded the previous year. It grew out of a brainstorming session in a pub to promote the magazine. The editors sent emails to journalists and chefs to pick their favorite places, like a music magazine compiling a best-albums list. The response was overwhelming and the annual awards were born.
Ahead of Tuesday evening’s ceremony, three awards were announced: Clare Smyth, of Core by Clare Smyth in London, won Elit Vodka Best Female Chef; Gaston Acurio of Astrid & Gaston in Lima won Diners Club Lifetime Achievement; and SingleThread, a farm restaurant in Northern California won the Miele One to Watch. The second part of the list, 51-100, was also previously announced; the winners follow.
Here are the results (last year’s place in parentheses):
Two of the top 10 cookbooks in 2017 were devoted to the appliance, according to . Melissa Clark’s (Clarkson Potter, $13.93) has sold 150,000 copies since its October release; the columnist estimates that her latest hit outsold her previous 39 cookbooks, combined.
Mention the appliance to chefs and you’re most likely to draw a blank stare.
“What’s an Instant Pot?” asks Alex Stupak, chef and co-owner of Empellón in New York.
Officially, the device shouldn’t be in professional kitchens at all. “Our current products are designed and certified for household use only,” Yi Qin, vice president of product management at Instant Pot in Ottawa, Ontario, told Bloomberg by email.
One obvious reason the appliance hasn’t been embraced by the restaurant community is scale. The largest Instant Pot holds 8 quarts—a drop in the (stock) pot for most restaurants.
One of the few professional chefs who admits to having an Instant Pot in his restaurant is Jonny Hunter of the Madison, Wisc.-based Underground Food Collective. In fact, he has five. Hunter is a fan of the compressed cook times and precision that the device offers.
“Traditionally, it takes about 40 days to make black garlic,” he says, referring to the intensely sticky Asian flavoring. “I can do it in six hours.”
Most dishes can’t be sped up so rapidly by the Instant Pot, but Hunter argues that even modest time savings will add up for a busy cook. Take hard-boiled eggs, for example: “It takes you eight minutes in an Instant Pot; the regular way takes 12 minutes,” he says. “Chefs say, ‘Who cares about that difference?’ But I save four minutes each time, and they’re perfectly cooked.”
Garrison Price, of New York’s il Buco Alimentari, routinely does 250 covers a night, yet he still finds the low-yielding appliance useful for making goat-milk yogurt. He serves it as an accompaniment to leg of lamb with wild watercress and anchovies, as well as spice-roasted spring carrots with green almonds. Making yogurt the traditional way is “tricky,” Price says. “You don’t have to baby sit yogurt you’re making in an Instant Pot.”
Price believes chefs don’t use the Instant Pot because of the message they associate with it. “I think it’s the infomercial-ness,” he says.
In Houston, James Beard award-winning chef Chris Shepherd is experimenting with an Instant Pot to create batches of pho “dressing” for a carpaccio dish at his upcoming 80-seat restaurant, UB Preserv. “I got the idea from my manicurist; she’s a big Instant Pot fan,” says Shepherd. He first used one at a previous restaurant when he ran out of Korean-braised goat and dumplings. “My cook said: ‘We should bust out that Instant Pot we have in storage.’ We had more goat ready in 45 minutes.”
At the Latin restaurant Público in St. Louis, Mike Randolph cooks almost everything on an open hearth. Yet his Instant Pot has been used to produce items ranging from vegan chorizo stock to dulce de leche. Randolph agrees that a drawback for some chefs is perception. “There’s a hesitation in having a brand name like that in your kitchen. A lot of chefs want to keep things more traditional, with a stovetop,” says Randolph.
Why indeed doesn’t Instant Pot create a bigger model for professionals? The company appears to have already asked the same question. “We are looking into all opportunities to expand the electric pressure multi-cooker market. Currently, we don’t have a commercial offering. But nothing is impossible,” said Qin by email.
(Corrects the name of the restaurant in the 13th paragraph.)
She loves to talk, hates to fly and wants to make it clear she takes no responsibility for the state of US politics
Be grateful you didnt sit next to Fran Lebowitz on the plane from New York to Melbourne. The trip was the longest flight she had taken, and therefore the longest time she managed to go without a cigarette. When I ask if it is her first time in Australia, she says: That makes it sound as if theres going to be a second time. She surprised herself by not being taken off the flight in handcuffs for assaulting fellow (first-class) passengers or smoking in the toilets.
I was like a child on the plane, asking the flight attendant, Are we there? And she said, Are you nuts? Weve only been flying for four hours. The only people who live in Australia are those who came to Australia and couldnt face the trip back Im actually one of those people.
Lebowitz has been invited to Australia several times but, as a longtime smoker, 30 hours on a flight without a cigarette was out of the question. But she was persuaded to perform shows (which quickly sold out) at the recent All About Women festival at the Sydney Opera House, and a Wheeler Centre talk in Melbourne. She got through the flight without being arrested by chewing lots of gum and being able to smoke during a brief stop in LA.
Before our meeting, I spot her standing on the footpath smoking, naturally in her sartorial uniform of Levi 501s, a white shirt and custom-made dark blazer. She glances up the street, towards Melbournes Fawkner Park, as if shes not quite sure where she is or how she got here. (She later asks me what day it is.)
Once we sit down to talk its immediately apparent that talking is what Lebowitz does best. Thats a big call, given the New Yorker is an author, social commentator, public speaker and even actor, appearing in shows such as Law and Order. Shes such a good talker that when I go to a nearby restaurant to do some work on my laptop after our interview is over, she sees me, sits next to me and talks for another hour. (Let me know if Im disturbing you, she offers politely).
But first, during her interview with Guardian Australia, Lebowitz wants to make it clear that she takes no responsibility for the state of American politics. She had just arrived in Melbourne and was having breakfast in her hotel when a man next to her saw she was reading the paper. And this guy started talking to me, I was reading something about Trump, and he said, You elected him! And I said I did not!
Lebowitz becomes indignant. I mean, I did not. Its not my fault. I know you [Australians] are very upset about it. But we are more upset. Even my friends I have a lot of friends in New York who are not American were blaming me. I spent a year of my life before the election, going around the country, talking about this stuff. Its not my fault. I am blameless. I am not a perfect person. I am not blameless in life but I do not know one single person who voted for him.
It should come as no surprise that Bloomberg Terminal users (aka the who’s who of the financial industry) eat out a lot. After all, there’s a lot of business to be done at restaurants, and it’s been a big year for New York dining, especially with the relaunch of the former Four Seasons space. So we took a poll among readers of Red Dot NYC, a weekly restaurant-openings newsletter available on the Terminal, to determine their favorite restaurants across the five boroughs. No surprise: It’s still all about Manhattan.
Here are New York’s top new restaurants, as chosen by hedge fund managers, traders, and other Wall Street insiders.
The runaway hit among the Bloomberg audience. And why not: The landmarked dining room from Major Food Group celebrates New York’s chophouse culture with a prime rib cart that rolls from table to table and a fabled bar, with its long list of martinis.
The splashy (hehe) restaurant opposite the Grill puts an emphasis on seafood prepared simply—and foie gras amped to 11—plus an exquisite and pricey raw-bar selection and the best caviar service in the city.
On a quiet West Village street, 4 Charles has the vibe of a small private club. The menu features prime rib, salt-crusted and roasted for hours. It’s served in multiple ways, from thinly sliced to a 16-ounce center-cut to a bone-in double cut that goes for $89.
One of the city’s newer power-dining spots is not far from the Financial District in lower SoHo. From the gleaming, open kitchen comes such reinvented French classics as pillowy seafood quenelles in lobster sauce and duck with figs and foie gras.
A vet of Jean-Georges Vongerichten kitchens, chef Dan Kluger serves New American dishes in a laid-back West Village dining room. Grain salad with smoked chili aioli, grandma-style pan pizza, and barbecue chicken from the wood-burning grill are all crowd-pleasers.
This stylish all-day café is from the same team behind Cosme, a destination restaurant famed for its duck carnitas. The menu here features Mexican treats such as herb-topped guacamole and fried fish Milanese, accompanied by a basket of fresh tortillas. The tequila and mescal list is stellar.
Chef Alex Stupak has expanded his downtown Mexican empire to 53rd Street and Madison Avenue, where he serves tacos that riff on such classic midtown dishes as hash browns and roast beef. The bar is great for after-work margaritas and guacamole—and indulgent seafood nachos worth the $30 charge.
The third restaurant to open in the Seagrams Building from Major Food Group, this stylish space designed by Peter Marino evokes a Japanese brasserie, with sushi and teppanyaki-grilled wagyu skirt, lobster, and branzino. There’s private dining space for up to 50 guests.
The modern Middle Eastern restaurant, down the block from Gramercy Tavern, is co-owned by the founder of the popular Breads Bakery (you may know its famous chocolate babka). The unconventional menu includes gigantic Jerusalem sesame bagels, seared scallops with chestnut cream, and Palestinian tartare made with hand-cut beef and smoked eggplant.
This dynamic Korean steakhouse specializes in the Butcher’s Feast (which we named one of the year’s best dishes), which gives guests the chance to sample multiple cuts of beef selected by chef David Shim from the dry aging room. That might include 45-day-aged rib-eye and Cote galbi, or marinated short ribs, cooked on the grill at your table. On any given night, you might see David Beckham or Chrissy Teigen.
Michelin has delivered some good news to the Bay Area.
Today, the restaurant bible announced the places that it has awarded one, two, and three stars in and around San Francisco. The news had been postponed, due to the wildfires in the area.
There are now seven Michelin three-star restaurants in San Francisco. The newest addition is Coi, a modern, thought-provoking restaurant near the Financial District. Chef/owner Daniel Patterson handed over kitchen duties to Matthew Kirkley early last year; in response, the restaurant gained a star. “Matthew Kirkley has taken the restaurant to another level,” says Michael Ellis, international director of the . “He can combine sweetbreads and skate. He can serve a dish like sea urchin mousseline with grapefruit caramel. You think, ‘How can that work?’ Yet it does.”
Patterson agreed. “I’m so happy for Matt,” he told Bloomberg after hearing the announcement. “He’s worked incredibly hard and he’s very deserving. I knew when I hired him he would cook at a three-star level and it’s great to see that hard work truly recognized.”
New York has only six Michelin three-stars, at least for the moment. The 2018 winners will be announced on Monday, Oct. 30. It remains to be seen whether New York will gain any more; the Bay Area seems to be ahead of the Big Apple in terms of creativity and ambitious cooking, and it has an affluent, young, tech-industry workforce that supports this—at least on the higher end.
The Michelin two-star category included mostly good news, too, for the Bay Area. Two restaurants were freshly named: the modern Mexican Californos, in the Mission, and the exceptional, farm-based, Japanese-minded Single Thread, in Healdsburg.
In all, 55 restaurants earned Michelin stars; last year there were 54. That bucked the trend for the area’s inexpensive restaurants—the Bib Gourmands, Michelin’s cheap eats, listed 67 spots this year, down from 74 a year ago. (For anyone wondering whether the charming, New American Rich Table was taken off that list because it landed a Michelin star this year, the answer is “Yes.”)
Another worthy addition to the list is Kenzo, the elegant Japanese omakase spot in Napa that’s attached to the winery of the same name. It’s owned by video game mogul Kenzo Tsujimoto, chief executive officer of Capcom Co. Also notable is In Situ, from chef Corey Lee. His restaurant in the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art received a star for recreating the world’s most famous dishes from such chefs as Massimo Bottura, David Chang, and Wylie Dufresne.
One restaurant that was downgraded from two stars to one is Campton Place. “It went to an all-tasting-menu format, which is fine, but the bar is higher,” notes Ellis. Several one-star spots shut their doors, including Aziza, Mosu, and Nico.
“There’s a lot of high level cooking going on in San Francisco right now,” Patterson says. “It’s at the highest level I’ve seen it. When we opened Coi [in 2006], there was nothing. I’ve seen it go from zero to where it is now. It’s been a remarkable evolution.”
Ellis says we’ll have to wait until the New York stars are announced to see whether San Francisco has emerged as the better food city. “New York has a lot of talent. But there’s a particular, creative energy and almost unlimited ambition coming out of California. There are huge Asian and Mexican influences, access to incredible products both locally and from Japan, and a young, thriving audience. It’s a perfect cocktail of things coming together for the city’s culinary scene.” The full list follows.
Adega, San Jose Al's Place, San Francisco Mission Aster, San Francisco Mission Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford Aziza, San Francisco Bouchon, Yountville Campton Place, San Francisco Chez TJ, Mountain View Commonwealth, San Francisco Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant, Forestville Gary Danko, San Francisco Hashiri, San Francisco *In Situ, San Francisco Ju-ni, San Francisco Keiko à Nob Hill, San Francisco *Kenzo, Wine Country Kin Khao, San Francisco *Kinjo, San Francisco La Toque, Napa Lord Stanley, San Francisco Luce, San Francisco Madera, Peninsula, Menlo Park Madrona Manor, Wine Country Michael Mina, San Francisco Mister Jiu’s, San Francisco Mourad, San Francisco Octavia, San Francisco Omakase, San Francisco Plumed Horse, South Bay The Progress , San Francisco
Rasa, Peninsula *Rich Table, San Francisco Sons & Daughters, San Francisco SPQR, San Francisco Spruce, San Francisco State Bird Provisions, San Francisco Sushi Yoshizumi, Peninsula Terra, Wine Country Terrapin Creek, Wine country The Village Pub, Peninsula Wako, San Francisco Wakuriya, Peninsula
The 13th edition of Michelin’s Bib Gourmand guide for New York has been announced. The “cheap eats” version of the famous dining list describes 127 restaurants in the five boroughs, including 14 new spots this year.
The chief criterion for Bib Gourmand winners are that a meal for two courses plus dessert or wine can be had for $40 or less, tax and tip excluded. (Whether that’s accurate or not is another story.) Anonymous inspectors visit the restaurants to make their recommendations. This year, the number of new Bib Gourmands in New York equals the total number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Washington, D.C., in 2018.
Still, this number is smaller than last year’s New York Bib Gourmand list, which named 132 restaurants in its guide. In 2016, there were 133 restaurants that made the cut. That year, 27 new places were named.
This year’s additions include some newcomers: Star chef Enrique Olvera notably didn’t get a Michelin star for Cosme, his New York restaurant, or Pujol, his scene-defining spot in Mexico City. But his casual Mexican spot, Atla, made the Bib Gourmand list this year. And some are not new at all, such as Luzzo, the old-school pizza joint in the East Village.
Mexican food was big for the guide this year with such additions as El Molcajete and Patron in the Bronx, as well as Atla.
It’s a list dominated by Manhattan and Brooklyn, although 15 restaurants are named in Queens, seven in the Bronx, and three in Staten Island. The full list is below.
New York Michelin Bib Gourmand 2018
(An asterisk denotes a new entry. All neighborhoods are listed by their designation in the Michelin guide.)
al Bustan (Midtown East) Angkor (Upper East Side) *Atla (Greenwich and West Village) Atoboy (Gramercy, Flatiron, and Union Square) Baker & Co. (Greenwich and West Village) Bar Primi (East Village) Beyoglu (Upper East Side)
Cho Dang Gol (Midtown West) Chomp Chomp (Greenwich and West Village) *ChouChou (East Village) Ciccio (SoHo and Nolita) Congee Village (Lower East Side) Cotenna (Greenwich and West Village) Dim Sum Go Go (Chinatown and Little Italy) DOMODOMO (Greenwich and West Village) Don Antonio by Starita (Midtown West) Donostia (East Village) 00 + Co (East Village) El Parador (Midtown) HanGawi (Midtown East) *Hao Noodle & Tea (Greenwich and West Village) Hecho en Dumbo (Greenwich and West Village) Hide-Chan Ramen (Midtown East) High Street on Hudson (Greenwich and West Village) Hunan Bistro (East Village) J.G. Melon (Upper East Side) Jin Ramen (Harlem, Morningside, and Washington Heights) J. Restaurant Chez Asta (Harlem, Morningside, and Washington Heights)
Katz’s (Lower East Side) Khe-Yo (TriBeCa) Kiin Thai (Greenwich and West Village) Kiki’s (Lower East Side) Kung Fu Little Steamed Buns Ramen (Midtown West) Land of Plenty (Midtown East) Larb Ubol (Midtown West) Laut (Gramercy, Flatiron, and Union Square) Lupa (Greenwich and West Village) *Luzzo’s (East Village) MáLà Project (East Village) Mapo Tofu (Midtown East) Miss Mamie’s Spoonbread Too (Upper West Side) Momofuku Noodle Bar (East Village) Momofuku Ssäm Bar (East Village) Oso (Harlem, Morningside, and Washington Heights) New Malaysia (Chinatown and Little Italy) *Norma Gastronomia Siciliana (Midtown East) Nyonya (Chinatown and Little Italy) Pippali (Gramercy, Flatiron, and Union Square) Prune (East Village) Ribalta (Greenwich and West Village) Rubirosa (SoHo and Nolita) Russ & Daughters Cafe (Lower East Side) San Matteo (Upper East Side) Sip Sak (Midtown East) Soba-Ya (East Village) Somtum Der (East Village) Spotted Pig (Greenwich and West Village) Streetbird Rotisserie (Harlem, Morningside, and Washington Heights) Supper (East Village) Szechuan Gourmet (Midtown West) Tertulia (Greenwich and West Village) *Tfor (Greenwich and West Village) Turkish Kitchen (Gramercy, Flatiron, and Union Square) Uva (Upper East Side) Zoma (Harlem, Morningside, and Washington Heights)
Achilles Heel, Williamsburg *Alta Calidad, Park Slope *Bunker (Fort Greene and Bushwick) Buttermilk Channel (Downtown) Chavela’s (Fort Greene and Bushwick) East Harbor Seafood Palace (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) Egg (Williamsburg) Falansai (Fort Greene and Bushwick) Frankies 457 Spuntino (Downtown) Freek’s Mill (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) Ganso Ramen (Downtown) Gladys (Fort Greene and Bushwick) Glasserie (Williamsburg) Good Fork (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) Gran Eléctrica (Downtown) Hometown Bar-B-Que (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) Kings County Imperial (Williamsburg) Lea (Park Slope)
Llama Inn (Williamsburg) Mile End (Downtown) *Miss Ada (Fort Greene and Bushwick) Olmsted (Park Slope) Paulie Gee’s (Williamsburg) *Pok Pok Ny (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) Prime Meats (Downtown) Purple Yam (Park Slope) Rider (Williamsburg) Roberta’s (Fort Greene and Bushwick) Shalom Japan (Williamsburg) Sottocasa (Downtown) Speedy Romeo (Fort Greene and Bushwick) Runner & Stone (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) Rye (Williamsburg) Tanoreen (Sunset Park and Brighton Beach) *21 Greenpoint (Williamsburg) Vinegar Hill House (Downtown) Xixa (Williamsburg)